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Thread: Wet sand bonnet (hood)

          
  1. #11
    Global Product & Training Spec Michael Stoops's Avatar
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    Re: Wet sand bonnet (hood)

    Quote Originally Posted by xrmte View Post
    Thanks mike great information
    I would like to reduce the op texture so as you said use the 3000 finishing disc without the interface pad

    Do you know many mils could be removed when just using the finishing disc straight on the backing plate?

    What would be a safe PTG range reading to use these discs to reduce op where is the limit?

    Well, if this was factory OEM paint I'd tell you the general rule of thumb is to not remove more than 0.5 mil (13 microns) of the topcoat. But since this isn't OEM paint, all bets are off. You have no real info on just how thick the topcoat is, so proceed with caution. That said, you can see the tremendous improvement we made with even less material removed than that, so with minimal impact to film thickness you can do wonders with texture removal.

    I'm guessing it's a safe bet that the rest of the car's OEM paint has some orange peel to it as well - they all do in varying degrees. Going easy with the sanding at first will help you match that texture so that the hood doesn't look out of place by being too flat, instead of too textured. That's easier, and safer, to achieve than trying to make it dead flat.
    Michael Stoops
    Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

    Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

  2. #12
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    Re: Wet sand bonnet (hood)

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Stoops View Post
    Well, if this was factory OEM paint I'd tell you the general rule of thumb is to not remove more than 0.5 mil (13 microns) of the topcoat. But since this isn't OEM paint, all bets are off. You have no real info on just how thick the topcoat is, so proceed with caution. That said, you can see the tremendous improvement we made with even less material removed than that, so with minimal impact to film thickness you can do wonders with texture removal.

    I'm guessing it's a safe bet that the rest of the car's OEM paint has some orange peel to it as well - they all do in varying degrees. Going easy with the sanding at first will help you match that texture so that the hood doesn't look out of place by being too flat, instead of too textured. That's easier, and safer, to achieve than trying to make it dead flat.
    Thanks mike so in my situation just to recap what sanding disc should i aim for?
    And use with or without interface pad?

  3. #13
    Global Product & Training Spec Michael Stoops's Avatar
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    Re: Wet sand bonnet (hood)

    Definitely start with a 3000 grit finishing disc, with the interface pad, and proceed cautiously from there depending on result.
    Michael Stoops
    Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

    Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

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    Re: Wet sand bonnet (hood)

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Stoops View Post
    Definitely start with a 3000 grit finishing disc, with the interface pad, and proceed cautiously from there depending on result.
    Ok thanks mike will have to order some soon I'll let you know how i get on.

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    Re: Wet sand bonnet (hood)

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Stoops View Post
    Definitely start with a 3000 grit finishing disc, with the interface pad, and proceed cautiously from there depending on result.
    Ok mike done a ptg reading on the boot (trunk) which is 3.8mils and 4.0mils and thats fairly consistent on that whole area

    If i use the 3000 finishing disc and the interface pad say 5mm or 10mm pad?
    It should only remove about 0.05 -0.07 mils correct so I'll still be in the safe zone?

  6. #16
    Global Product & Training Spec Michael Stoops's Avatar
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    Re: Wet sand bonnet (hood)

    Quote Originally Posted by xrmte View Post
    Ok mike done a ptg reading on the boot (trunk) which is 3.8mils and 4.0mils and thats fairly consistent on that whole area

    If i use the 3000 finishing disc and the interface pad say 5mm or 10mm pad?
    It should only remove about 0.05 -0.07 mils correct so I'll still be in the safe zone?
    Wait.... now you want to sand the OEM paint on the trunk as well? With just 3.8 to 4.0 mils of total film build you really aren't working with a lot of paint there. Removing OEM orange peel will likely require the removal of more than 0.07 mil of material and, quite frankly, removing orange peel from OEM paint isn't really a great idea. Yes, it can be done and done safely - to a point. It usually takes a pretty good skill set and a fair bit of experience to do it consistently and safely. The biggest issue, however, isn't so much the initial sanding and buffing but what you're left with after the process. Yes, the paint looks amazing - smooth, super glossy, almost devoid of texture.... a real show car finish. Yay!!! Except this is not a pampered show car, it's a daily driver. And daily drivers get exposed to all sorts of damaging effects on the paint. And since that paint is now super glossy and almost texture free, those defects REALLY stand out. And now you're stuck, because removing a deep-ish defect means removing paint and, well, you're likely at the limit now so you get to live with this nasty looking, in-your-face defect. Hmmmm.....
    Michael Stoops
    Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

    Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

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    Re: Wet sand bonnet (hood)

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Stoops View Post
    Wait.... now you want to sand the OEM paint on the trunk as well? With just 3.8 to 4.0 mils of total film build you really aren't working with a lot of paint there. Removing OEM orange peel will likely require the removal of more than 0.07 mil of material and, quite frankly, removing orange peel from OEM paint isn't really a great idea. Yes, it can be done and done safely - to a point. It usually takes a pretty good skill set and a fair bit of experience to do it consistently and safely. The biggest issue, however, isn't so much the initial sanding and buffing but what you're left with after the process. Yes, the paint looks amazing - smooth, super glossy, almost devoid of texture.... a real show car finish. Yay!!! Except this is not a pampered show car, it's a daily driver. And daily drivers get exposed to all sorts of damaging effects on the paint. And since that paint is now super glossy and almost texture free, those defects REALLY stand out. And now you're stuck, because removing a deep-ish defect means removing paint and, well, you're likely at the limit now so you get to live with this nasty looking, in-your-face defect. Hmmmm.....
    You made some good solid points there mike
    Great advice and your right its only a daily driver

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