#9 and #26 or Color X and NXT Wax ?

[yyyy]

My car is 99 in average condition.
Did anyone try to use #9 (Swirl Remover) and #26 (Hi-tech yellow wax) ? and compared them with Cosumer lines of products such as Deep Crystal System Paint Cleaner and Gold Class Clear Coat Car Wax.

I just bought them, but wonder if I should get consumer products, instead of professional ones.

[black240sx]

I believe the #9 swirl remover works best with an electric polisher, which is why it's in the professional line.

The #26 wax is easy to apply and looks great, particularly on black.

[Ranger72]

I suggest claying it first, then clean, polish, wax.

[Rockpick]

Re: #9 and #26 or Color X and NXT Wax ?

Originally posted by yyyy
My car is 99 in average condition.
Did anyone try to use #9 (Swirl Remover) and #26 (Hi-tech yellow wax) ? and compared them with Cosumer lines of products such as Deep Crystal System Paint Cleaner and Gold Class Clear Coat Car Wax.

I just bought them, but wonder if I should get consumer products, instead of professional ones.

Hi yyyy!

#9 Swirl Remover 2.0 is an excellent product by hand or by machine in my opinion. In fact, I consider it to be one of the easier 'swirl remover' types of products that are available on the market.

With that being said, it sounds like you have a pretty good start on chemicals. As has been previously mentioned, I might add a claybar treatment to your mix before you apply #9. If you're not familar with clay, what it does is remove bonded contaminants from your paint and thus allow you to have more of an 'optically correct' surface to work with. Further, it'll give a feel to the paint that will blow your mind.

You see, this process works by abrasion. You take a lubricating spray like Meguiar's Quik Detailer and mist it on to the surface. You then take HALF of the claybar and simply move it back and forth across the surface that you just lubricated. As the clay moves back and forth, it grabs some of the bonded stuff (rail dust, industrial fall out, slight paint overspray, etc) and embeds this material in the clay itself. Your paint should feel like GLASS... clean glass. If it has any 'bumpy or rough' texture to it, clay is a step I wouldn't neglect. Surface prep is 90 - 97% of the battle when getting a vehicle looking it's best!

Being that it's a 99, I'd bet it'd really be a beneficial step for you.

Check out the Meguiar's Quik Clay System... it has everything you need in the box. It's really a good system...

You could get more in depth with your detail but, I'm not sure how far you want to go with it.

One hint, use the #9 a few times if you need to. Don't be afraid to do multiple applications as it simply cannot hurt your efforts. Further, 'work' the product per the instructions on the bottle. It's not a 'smack it on and wipe it off' type of product; you have to work it until it's approaching drying (and in the AZ heat, it might be quick -- this is why I mentioned multiple applications if necessary).

Top with a couple of coats of #26 (which I regard as one of the best carnauba based waxes on the market -- especially on dark colors) and you should be in business!

Feel free to post back with any other questions that you may have and best of luck!

RP

[Nathan Montanino]

Hello

1st thing 1st how much time are you looking to put into this?

Then we can go from there before I write a all bunch ! Also are you doing this by-hand or machine?