Advice needed for original single stage chalky white paint on Toyota Tacoma

[jburris11]

Hi folks-

I am restoring the paint on a 2000 Toyota Tacoma that has the original single stage white paint. This truck has been outside its entire life and currently has black moldy looking residue on it and the paint is super chalky.

What advice is out there on products that might work best on this type of single stage trashed paint?

I considered using D107 Citrus APC for the mold, then the D2002 iron removing spray clay followed by traditional clay bar for prep. For polishing I have thought about trying D300 with a microfiber cutting pad to start the paint restoration but wanted to get some additional input. I have really only used Ultimate Compound and Polish with foam pads in the past with great results but this truck is a different animal all together.

Many thanks in advance!

[The Guz]

Re: Advice needed for original single stage chalky white paint on Toyota Tacoma

I posted this some time ago on a white FJ that I polished out that had chalky paint. This one had some repaint done to it and those areas were a bit more finicky to work with but the first time I did it a one step polish was more than enough.

I would recommend using foam pads rather than microfiber pads. Go with your test spot as you may only need ultimate polish. Toyota paint is on the softer side but your test spot will be key in how to proceed.

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/128146-2008-fj-cruiser-trd-trail-teams-edition-polished-ceramic-coated.html

[Old Bear]

Re: Advice needed for original single stage chalky white paint on Toyota Tacoma

@The Guz - Michael, did you need to increase the frequency of pad cleaning due to the chalking moving from the paint to the pads?

[jburris11]

Re: Advice needed for original single stage chalky white paint on Toyota Tacoma

Michael - thanks so much for the detailed info! I will give the polish a try first and appreciate the tip on using foam versus MF pads. Your article on the 2008 FJ is very helpful as well. Funny coincidence….I have the exact same FJ Cruiser :-). So far I can report that the D107 worked great for removing the mold at the local coin car wash. Iron removal is next and then clay and the test spot.

[Nick Winn]

Re: Advice needed for original single stage chalky white paint on Toyota Tacoma

Would also agree regarding foam pads, however, would not completely rule them out, even though this is single stage, it is much more modern, and I do not feel that it will be as soft or pull as much paint into your pad as a pre-1980's single stage paint system, where it would be more important to strictly use foam pads. If you needed the cut of the microfiber pad, especially if there are heavy swirls/scratches in addition to oxidation, one approach that comes to mind is the Kevin Brown "mow down" technique, where you would buff over the panel in a fairly larger than normal working area, with much quicker arm speed than normal, with a foam pad, sort of a quick pass, to knock off/remove IMO a majority of the oxidation/defects, and then come back with a separate, clean foam cutting or microfiber cutting (again if needed) to do a more normal moderate pressure, moderate arm speed, 16 inch square or 2 ft square section pass.

Would also recommend to keep an eye on the finish you are obtaining. The oxidation removal can be pretty straight forward and it should gloss up pretty easily, but the finish you are leaving behind i.e. after the use of a compound, i.e. after the use of a cleaner wax, is something that may not be as straight forward, i.e. leaving behind little to no D/A Haze, in other words, the clarity of the paint. Depending on how particular you are about this, it may require slight modifications within your compound/cleaner wax process, or, it may require a dedicated finishing polish to achieve best results, like our M205 Ultra Finishing Polish or M210 Ultra Pro Finishing Polish.

[jburris11]

Re: Advice needed for original single stage chalky white paint on Toyota Tacoma

Thanks Nick! This is great info. My family and I own several white Toyotas so this is super valuable insight. I have been wanting to try M210 and this might be the time to go for it.

[The Guz]

Re: Advice needed for original single stage chalky white paint on Toyota Tacoma

@The Guz - Michael, did you need to increase the frequency of pad cleaning due to the chalking moving from the paint to the pads?

I cycled my pads out every panel since I have many pads at my disposal. I blew them out with a compressor to finish out that panel I was working on. For example when working on the hood of half of the roof.

Michael - thanks so much for the detailed info! I will give the polish a try first and appreciate the tip on using foam versus MF pads. Your article on the 2008 FJ is very helpful as well. Funny coincidence….I have the exact same FJ Cruiser :-). So far I can report that the D107 worked great for removing the mold at the local coin car wash. Iron removal is next and then clay and the test spot.

Yeah the paint is easy to work with on it.

Would also agree regarding foam pads, however, would not completely rule them out, even though this is single stage, it is much more modern, and I do not feel that it will be as soft or pull as much paint into your pad as a pre-1980's single stage paint system, where it would be more important to strictly use foam pads. If you needed the cut of the microfiber pad, especially if there are heavy swirls/scratches in addition to oxidation, one approach that comes to mind is the Kevin Brown "mow down" technique, where you would buff over the panel in a fairly larger than normal working area, with much quicker arm speed than normal, with a foam pad, sort of a quick pass, to knock off/remove IMO a majority of the oxidation/defects, and then come back with a separate, clean foam cutting or microfiber cutting (again if needed) to do a more normal moderate pressure, moderate arm speed, 16 inch square or 2 ft square section pass.

Would also recommend to keep an eye on the finish you are obtaining. The oxidation removal can be pretty straight forward and it should gloss up pretty easily, but the finish you are leaving behind i.e. after the use of a compound, i.e. after the use of a cleaner wax, is something that may not be as straight forward, i.e. leaving behind little to no D/A Haze, in other words, the clarity of the paint. Depending on how particular you are about this, it may require slight modifications within your compound/cleaner wax process, or, it may require a dedicated finishing polish to achieve best results, like our M205 Ultra Finishing Polish or M210 Ultra Pro Finishing Polish.

Nick makes a valid point as it is still modern paint an unlike the early single stage paints.