Paint correction on a older car.

[primalscream97]

Hello,

I am new to paint correction. I bought a 1978 Trans Am SE with original paint I would like to restore. The car has scratches and swirls. I used Meguiar's Ultimate compound and a orange Chemical Guys buffing pad. The car looks good in the garage, but when the sun hits it I can still see swirls and scratches. I'm guessing I need something more aggressive. What are some suggestions to do next? I have a Black and Decker dual action buffer. And what speed should I use? Thanks in advance for your advise.

David

[The Guz]

Re: Paint correction on a older car.

The buffer you have will not do the job. It is referred to as a wax spreader. You would have to get a dual action polisher to remove defects.

You could look into Mike Phillips and #7 show car glaze wipdown. Just google it. It won't remove scratches but bring back luster to the paint.

[primalscream97]

Re: Paint correction on a older car.

Sorry, I have the dual action polisher. Thanks for the advice i'll look it up.

[Nick Winn]

Re: Paint correction on a older car.

Feel free to let us know if you have further questions or provide an update on how the project is going.

[primalscream97]

Re: Paint correction on a older car.

I got some advise to use Chemicals Guys yellow pad, Ultimate Compound, and put the polisher on 3. Another person told me to wet sand it, polish, and wax it. I got a quote for $1500 for paint correction and ceramic coat. The video Mike Phillips #7 show car glaze doesn't sound like it corrects the scratches and webbing. After watching the full video they also said if you have a hard shine that #7 won't do anything. My car looks great in the garage, but once the sun or a flashlight hits the paint to can see webbing and defects. So I am still up in the air on what to do. It's original paint. It has flaws from the factory so I know it will never be "show car", but I would like it the best I can. I don't want to waste my time "trying" different stuff. And I have no problem putting the work in. If you can give me advise I will take it. The more I research on the internet the more I get confused of what I should do. I can take pictures or a video if needed. Thanks in advance.

[Old Bear]

Re: Paint correction on a older car.

Look hard at the webbing. This can come from the lower level of the paint as well as the top.
If it is "lacquer checking" from the lower levels that can not be wet sanded and then polished. You would end up wet sanding to the point of the paint being too thin.

Here is a link on lacquer checking" or other similar type paints.
Lacquer paint checking question (meguiarsonline.com)

I would suggest trying the Mike Phillips method. It is not a cure, yet you may find it gives the best results (until a repaint).

[primalscream97]

Re: Paint correction on a older car.

The swirls and scratches are from the car wash. I haven't ruled that out using #7 yet. The car looks great in the garage, but once the sun hits it I can see swirls and fine scratches. I'm going to try and heavier pad, lower speed, and then #7. Or should I try #7 first?

[Old Bear]

Re: Paint correction on a older car.

Pop some popcorn.
Spend 60-90 minutes with this article.
The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints (autogeekonline.net)

[BillyJack]

Re: Paint correction on a older car.

Pop some popcorn.
Spend 60-90 minutes with this article.
The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints (autogeekonline.net)

By all means read and re-read the article. I've used the process numerous times, including my old El Camino, which I turned from faded pinkish burgundy paint to a cover car on the National El Camino Owner Association calendar. The M07 by itself has no abrasives, but when it's aggressively rubbed into old lacquer paints, it will remove oxidation, polish the exposed metallic particles in the paint and most importantly moisturize the aged paint to make any subsequent polishing more effective.
A small bottle of M07 is about $15. Try a test spot, using Mike's process, then decide if you want to do any further paint correction.

Bill

[KeithIndy]

Re: Paint correction on a older car.

Are we sure it's a Lacquer paint? Are you sure it's single stage? Odds are it's basecoat / clearcoat and can be dealt with like any other 2 stage.
Take a towel with your Ultimate Compound on it and rub the paint a bit, if the towel picks up color it's single stage. If not, it's basecoat / clearcoat.

Either way you need to get more aggressive if you want to completely correct the paint. The first thing I would recommend is getting a Porter Cable, Griots, or other high quality DA that will have the power to correct. Second, start looking at more aggressive pads like microfiber, there are a couple different cutting levels of those.
The Ultimate compound is good stuff, I use the M105 which is the same thing. Question though.....what did you use AFTER the Ultimate Compound? You may be seeing micro marring from the UC and orange pad?
You need to work your way down in aggressiveness, usually Ultimate Polish does a great job as a second step though sometimes it will take couple passes. Take your time, it's cool that the car has original paint and it adds to the value.

[BillyJack]

Re: Paint correction on a older car.

A 1978 GM vehicle, if it wasn't repainted, will be single-stage lacquer. GM didn't start phasing in BC/CC paints until the 80's and then gradually, taking almost the entire decade to fully convert.
A sure way to tell would be to take a cleaner wax, polish, or even compound on a white cloth and do a small test spot. If you have the color of the car paint on your cloth, it's single stage paint.
The OP mentioned his '78 has original paint, so single stage it is.
BTW, I've worked in GM Dealers since 1974.

Bill

[KeithIndy]

Re: Paint correction on a older car.

I wasn't sure when they came in with BC/CC, but also recommended a test spot.