Using the G-100 to remove swirls, scratches and etchings...

[rusty bumper]

Originally posted by integraoligist
question... for the places that the DA can't reach when using #83 and 80... do you just use a microfiber applicator pad and scrub by hand? or what?

Thanks!

In areas like that, all you can really do is a hand application by using the Hi-Tech, microfiber, or terry applicator.

[integraoligist]

in a circular motion?

[rusty bumper]

Originally posted by integraoligist
in a circular motion?

If possible, but it doesn't really matter what direction you use.

Here's a good thread on the subject.

Circles or Straight Lines?

[integraoligist]

he is referring to applying wax/sealent, which is non abrasive... thus it dosent matter which way to apply it...

but because 80 and 83 do have abrasives in them to get into the paint... i can only assume a straight back and forth motion would be best? however when using the a DA to apply, it goes in ALL directions.

[rusty bumper]

Originally posted by integraoligist
he is referring to applying wax/sealent, which is non abrasive... thus it dosent matter which way to apply it...

but because 80 and 83 do have abrasives in them to get into the paint... i can only assume a straight back and forth motion would be best? however when using the a DA to apply, it goes in ALL directions.

I don't think it's going to hurt anything myself, but #80 would be my product of choice for these areas when using straight line motions.

ScratchX has abrasives in it, and it can be applied it straight lines from what I've read....

Work the microscopic diminishing abrasives against the finish applying a little passion behind the applicator pad

ScratchX can be applied using straight-lines or circular motion and for this particular demonstration we used a combination of both.

The above remarks were taken from this thread.

#83 is a little tough to break down by hand, but #80 should be very suitable for hand use IMO.

[bluemoon]

Thier is a ton of information in this thread! Thanks Mike. Knowing how to "properly" use a product it a huge part of the battle. I know I should did learn alot.

[coredump]

If I am using a DA, would #80 or ScratchX be ideal in removing swirls/cowebs?

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by coredump
If I am using a DA, would #80 or ScratchX be ideal in removing swirls/cobwebs?

Hi coredump,

ScratchX is formulated for hand application only. When it gets hot, sometimes it can become gummy on the surface and difficult to remove.

In a perfect world, we would recommend M80 Speed Glaze. If you cannot obtain M80 Speed Glaze which is the case in some other countries outside the U.S.A., then you can try the ScratchX at your own decision knowing what I've posted about it.

I've used it personally with the dual action polisher and had mixed results. Sometimes it worked great and was easy to remove, sometimes it worked great and was difficult to remove. I think the difficulty is always going to be related to the specific application circumstances such as paint type, temperature, humidity, skill level, etc.

If you do use it with a dual action polisher and it does become difficult to remove, then try misting some quick detailer onto it and then wiping it off.

M80 Speed Glaze on the other hand is pretty much bubba-proof.

(Note to self... add a blub about ScratchX to the how-to article)

[coredump]

That does make sense. I helped a friend ScratchX (by hand) his car yesterday and it was 90F no humidity Southern California weather. Needless to say, it was a pain trying to get it off. I ended up using Quik Detailer to get it off.

My G100 hasn't arrived so I had to do the polishing by hand yesterday.

But thanks, that answers my question.

[Detalnewb]

OMG - 15 to 20 pounds??!!??

WOW - Everything I had ever heard on other forums was to just have the weight of the PC/G100. Totally amazing. Interesting news ... now I have to retry with more pressure on my "practice car"

I'm still completely freaked out about trying to polish the cobwebbing on my truck Black paint + mistake = bad

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Detalnewb
OMG - 15 to 20 pounds??!!??

WOW - Everything I had ever heard on other forums was to just have the weight of the PC/G100. Totally amazing. Interesting news ... now I have to retry with more pressure on my "practice car"

I've demonstrated these techniques in front of thousands of people live as well as buffed out hundreds, if not thousands of cars in my life.

When I took the pictures of the polisher on the bathroom scale, I was drawing from real-life experience as to how hard to push down on the polisher for the most accurate information to help you get the results you're looking for.

Just to note, if you merely place the polisher on a bathroom scale and apply just a tad over the weight of the machine to insure balance and smooth operation, you'll already be around 8 lbs of pressure, this of course includes the weight of the tool, pad, backing plate and chemical.

I found it just as interesting as most people when I did the experiment.

[rusty bumper]

Originally posted by Detalnewb
OMG - 15 to 20 pounds??!!??

WOW - Everything I had ever heard on other forums was to just have the weight of the PC/G100. Totally amazing. Interesting news ... now I have to retry with more pressure on my "practice car"

I'm still completely freaked out about trying to polish the cobwebbing on my truck Black paint + mistake = bad

That does sound like a lot of weight. A bathroom scale would be in order to get the proper feel to it.

I would back off on the pressure as the product breaks down though.

[philming]

Re: Using the G-100 to remove swirls, scratches and etchings...

Hi there ! Do the techniques showned in message #1 apply for use of Ultimate Compound or SwirlX as well? 15-20 pounds pressure, 30x30 cm work area, overlap and so on?
I've noticed using SwirlX by hand that it had a tendency to dry out VERY quicly. Is this to be taken in consideration when working it with a DA?

[rusty bumper]

Re: Using the G-100 to remove swirls, scratches and etchings...

Hi there ! Do the techniques showned in message #1 apply for use of Ultimate Compound or SwirlX as well? 15-20 pounds pressure, 30x30 cm work area, overlap and so on?
I've noticed using SwirlX by hand that it had a tendency to dry out VERY quicly. Is this to be taken in consideration when working it with a DA?

I've used that amount of pressure with UC with good results, but I have no experience with SwirlX yet.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Using the G-100 to remove swirls, scratches and etchings...

Hi there ! Do the techniques showned in message #1 apply for use of Ultimate Compound or SwirlX as well? 15-20 pounds pressure, 30x30 cm work area, overlap and so on?
I've noticed using SwirlX by hand that it had a tendency to dry out VERY quicly. Is this to be taken in consideration when working it with a DA?

Yes, you would use these new consumer products in the same way as outlined here for M80 & M83, although both of the consumer products are more aggressive than M83! SwirlX on a D/A should give you a generous buffing cycle, even with this sort of pressure and speed.