• If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

clay and paint cleaner....

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • clay and paint cleaner....

    You clay and then use dc#1 in that order?
    Do you still want to use these on a brand new car bought a month ago even if you don't really feel or see anything wrong with it?
    Is dc#1 the best paint cleaner to use in this situation?
    After using clay do you dry excess quick detailer or does the clay absorb all of it? Do you rinse after claying? Is there any good tricks when claying or is it pretty cut and dry?
    What about with the paint cleaner such as dc#1 any techniques or tricks I need to know? Do I rinse before waxing? such to knock off loosened contaminants?
    Would either one of these scratch or harm paint if used incorrectly?
    Also if I have one little tiny yellow spot.....on white paint. Which product would be most likely to get that off?

    I would be thankful for anyhelp I can get.....I really don't want to mess up my new car. Thank You....

  • #2
    Re: clay and paint cleaner....

    Originally posted by Callaway23
    You clay and then use dc#1 in that order?
    Yes. You always clay first and then use a paint cleaner unless you're working with an extremely oxidized single stage finish, then in this case you use a paint cleaner first to remove the oxidation, (dead paint), and then use your clay bar.

    Do you still want to use these on a brand new car bought a month ago even if you don't really feel or see anything wrong with it?
    If you don't see or feel anything wrong with the finish then you can go right to washing followed by waxing. Since it is brand new, some people would agree that claying and using a paint cleaner would be a good idea so that you know you're starting right off the bat with a perfectly clean finish unto which to apply your wax. If it were mine, I would go this route.

    Is dc#1 the best paint cleaner to use in this situation?
    Yes as long as you don't see any swirls in bright light that you want to remove.

    After using clay do you dry excess quick detailer or does the clay absorb all of it?
    Keep a clean microfiber in your back pocket and wipe off any excess residue as you go.

    Do you rinse after claying?
    No, not if you do a good job of wiping off excess as you go.

    Is there any good tricks when claying or is it pretty cut and dry?
    Tear your clay into 2-3 pieces and save the extras in a clean sandwich baggie for future use.

    knead you clay into a pancake looking wafer, mist on some Quik Detailer to the clay and onto the paint and then rub the clay back and forth or in circles, it shouldn't matter as long as you keep your clay clean. Re-knead every so often as you're moving around the car to expose a new side.

    Here are some examples of what your clay will look like if there is anything on the finish that you're removing...




    Light Contaminants



    Heavy Contaminants


    Kind of medium contaminants...




    What about with the paint cleaner such as dc#1 any techniques or tricks I need to know?
    Shake before using, apply about a tablespoon of product onto pad, spread out over a small section using circular motions and work in gently against the finish. After you do a section, like a door, fender or hood, use a clean microfiber to wipe off any excess. Paint cleaners no not need to dry before you remove them.

    In the Meguiar's line of products, only our waxes need to dry before your remove them

    Also, you're not trying to apply a thick coat, you're trying to apply and work in a thin coat.

    Do I rinse before waxing? such to knock off loosened contaminants?
    No, not if you do a good job of wiping off the excess.

    Would either one of these scratch or harm paint if used incorrectly?
    No, not unless you get some dirt between your pad and the paint.

    Also if I have one little tiny yellow spot.....on white paint. Which product would be most likely to get that off?
    The clay should remove it if it's sticking above the surface, if not the paint cleaner should remove it. Inspect after each of these products have been applied and removed.

    I would be thankful for any help I can get.....I really don't want to mess up my new car. Thank You....
    Read through this before you begin,




    Even though you're not trying to remove swirls, you want to follow the steps in the order they are outlined and the principals for applying the products are the same.

    Best of luck to you!
    Mike Phillips
    760-515-0444
    showcargarage@gmail.com

    "Find something you like and use it often"

    Comment


    • #3
      1. Yes, Wash, Clay, Clean

      2. Claying a brand new car is fantastic in my opinion.. Worked wonders for me. DC#1 is completly mild, so it will nto remove swirls, but if you dont have any, then this is perfect for a new car. It is best to get a perfect finish right fro mteh start, so definately do both steps.

      3. Yes, if you have no swirls to fix, then this is perfect.

      4. Usualy, I wash, rinse, clay, rinse, dry. I sort of keep the car wet the whole time, then just dry at the end.

      5. Very easy though, esp on a clean car. Just use lots of lube, and cut the clay into 3 or 4 pieces. If you drop it, you cant keep using it.

      6. Just work it in, and wipe it off. Dont let it dry, I use a supreme shine microfiber, but good terry cloth is also good.

      7. Just clean, Polish Wax, no washing in between.

      8. Well, as long as you keep everything clean, it wont scratch. As I said, dont use dropped clay, dont use dropped towels/applicators without washing, always use good quality towels, applicators, etc. And a good quality wash sponge and the two bucket system.

      9. Try the clay fist, then the DC#1, then ScratchX.
      2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

      Comment


      • #4
        thanks...so..

        Thank you.
        Yet I do have some more questions....sorry....
        So...no need to rinse? ...( you don't use the keeping it wet method)...this doesn't sound like a bad idea
        I read somewhere on here about taping off sections of your car...I guess when you are using a paint cleaner. Do you agree? What do you do this for? and what sections do you tape off? (is it anything that is not metal)
        Also from what I read, paint cleaner takes off a small margin of your paint. I believe? That sounds kind of scary. I know it's a very small amount. I just don't want to mess anything up...you know. I'm trying to make it look the best I can.
        Polish....Do I need one? Would it make a difference on a white car? ...or not really? Or do I just need one after using a paint cleaner?
        WAX? What would be best for a white car? NXT or Gold Class? I heard one is a cleaner/wax and one is a polish/wax. Which is which? Does that mean you don't have to use a cleaner/polish with one of them depending on which one you get? If it is a matter of opinion rather than color of car.....what is your opinion? and what are the benefits of each?
        Last....I don't need the bug and tar remover for the yellow spot then? Does that also take off tree sap?
        Thanks you for your help. I really appreciate it. I know I am a green pea when it comes to this. But I am aching to get out there tonight and start massaging my new car!
        ...Justin

        Comment


        • #5
          You can soak the yellow spot with water with a towel or you can use the car wash towel and soak it with that.

          Basically you leave a towel on the surface for a few minutes.

          If that doesn't work, try bug and tar remover or Clay.

          Yes Bug and Tar remover works on Tree Sap too.

          Comment


          • #6
            1. You can either dry completly, then QD and with with a MF towel, or keep it wet. Both work fine. I like to give a good rinse after claying, so that is why I dont bother drying.

            2. Taping off is good with cleaners, polishes, and waxes. It is mainly to keep these products off trim, so they dont dry white on your black trim. This is even more important when working with a machine, and can splatter a little.

            3. Anything that touches paint will remove a few molecules. DC#1 is the mildest cleaner, and could be used weekly for 10 years with no bad effects. Some of the cleaners have abraseives, and are meant for more specific or delicate application.

            4. Polish will not change the look very much of a white car. However, ir is still paint, and the oils in the polish will help keep the paint 'healthy'. You will want to do it sometimes, but everytime is not as important with a white car. Unless you can see the difference on your car?

            5. I'd say Nxt.. both are good.. up to you. Gold class is a cleaner polish, and nxt has some VERY mild cleaners. Just for a little surface prep. Neither will replace a polishing or cleaning step.

            I have a new car, daily driver, parked outside, so gets dirty a little faster than I care to do full details. I have used Clay as needed, ColorX, and Nxt with great success. Just what I do on my new car, since you mentioned thinking of cutting out a step or two.

            kind of like:
            Wash
            Clay as needed
            DC#1
            DC#2
            Nxt
            Nxt

            or:
            Wash
            Clay as needed
            ColorX
            Nxt

            Just something to think about.

            6. You can try bug and tar remover on the spot.. though it doesnt nessicerily sound like a bug or tar or sap...but who knows. Go for it.
            2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

            Comment

            Working...
            X
            gtag('config', 'UA-161993-8');