drips and runs adivse ?

[WhiteCamaro88]

my rear bumper was repainted 100 days ago and now its cured it has runs and drips not alot just on horizontal part i am thinking of wet sanding to smooth it the car is white paint , clear coat

i have a g100 and i have 83 will that do the job to get rid of sanding marks, and a couple 8006 pads

any advice i dont have the budget to bring it to a body shop thats why im brainstorimg

[Accumulator]

Gotta be careful, if you remove the drips/runs you might take off too much clear. Seems like there's gotta be so much on there that it won't be a problem but that's often wrong. Go slow and easy and consider quitting "too soon".

Use 3K Unigrit paper and you should be able to remove the sanding marks without much trouble (I've done it by hand).

[Mike Phillips]

Re: drips and runs advise ?

Originally posted by WhiteCamaro88
my rear bumper was repainted 100 days ago and now its cured it has runs and drips not alot just on horizontal part i am thinking of wet sanding to smooth it the car is white paint , clear coat

i have a g100 and i have 83 will that do the job to get rid of sanding marks, and a couple 8006 pads

any advice i dont have the budget to bring it to a body shop thats why im brainstorimg

If the paint is still soft you "might" be able to remove sanding marks with a dual action polisher.

Besides our Nikken Finishing Papers, we also have these sanding blocks just for runs, drips, d.i.p. etc.

http://meguiars.com/?pro-blocks/Sanding-Blocks

You can ask Nick about his experience removing sanding marks, his is a different situation, but in the same idea he tried to remove sanding marks by hand and then we were able to get most of them using a G100


From this thread,

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8298&perpage=10&pagenumber=4

The rear bumper on the Beetle had been damaged and Nick filled in the affected areas with touch-up paint and then sanded the area to smooth the paint out to more or less match the appearance of the surrounding paint. After sanding and then attempting to remove his sanding marks, he found he was able to remove them out of the touch-up paint, (soft paint), but he could not remove them out of the factory clear coat, (hard paint).

Thus one of the reasons for attending Meguiar's Saturday Detailing Class.

There were three areas he worked on, we took a picture but the sanding marks don't show up although they could easily be seen with the naked eye.




Meguiar's has always taught and continues to teach the philosophy of,

"Always use the least aggressive product to get the job done"

In keeping with the philosophy we decided to use the M80 Speed Glaze first, as this is a fairly light cleaner/polish plus it's very easy to work with. We know that if the M80 Speed Glaze proves to not be aggressive enough, we can always substitute a more aggressive product like the M83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish.




After a few, well worked passes, 95% of the sanding marks were gone!




The only marks that remained that were visible to the naked eye were so small that you had to know where to look to see them. Good work Nick! Nick was the last man standing and here's a shot of him leaving Meguiar's for San Diego...

[Accumulator]

Mike- Good recommendation on the sanding blocks, I completely forgot about those. My painter gave me the fine one after the work he did on my S8 as he felt more comfortable having me do that sort of work It worked great.

My memory is really on the fritz regarding those blocks I coulda sworn mine was a 2500 but apparently it was a 2000. At any rate, its scratches came out without needing the rotary also, but not as easily as those from the 3000 paper.