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Absolutely, if your car has dark paint, M7 would add even more wow factor (more depth, richer color), don't worry about bonding issues with Ultimate wax and M7, if anything, it will enhance the bonding of Ultimate wax.
Absolutely, if your car has dark paint, M7 would add even more wow factor (more depth, richer color), don't worry about bonding issues with Ultimate wax and M7, if anything, it will enhance the bonding of Ultimate wax.
Both of my vehicles are dark (one black and one very dark metallic gray) Which would you suggest...UP or M7?
Both of my vehicles are dark (one black and one very dark metallic gray) Which would you suggest...UP or M7?
It depends on your paint type. Older single-stage paints just love M07, but its effect is marginal at best on newer urethane-based clearcoats. I use it regularly on the OEM lacquer of my old El Camino, even giving it overnight soaks yearly. It will make any dark modern paint look great at first, but it will be gone with the first rain or washing. I've heard it called "queen for a day" in show car circles, 'cause that's about how long it lasts on modern clearcoats.
If you want to experiment with something on dark paints, try some D301 MF finishing wax, applied with a soft foam pad, such as a Meguiar's Black pad. I've used it on my Black Lacrosse after either M300, M101 or UC and it removes minor marring and adds noticeable "pop" in one step.
Stick with modern products for modern paints.
It depends on your paint type. Stick with modern products for modern paints.
Bill
They are modern for sure, with one less than a few months old. I will stick with my #6 for a polish/wax. Not fond of UP and I thought M7 would be a nice polish and easier to remove than UP. I don't experiment much, and never even heard of D301. Just a simple clay, UC where necessary, #6 for a polish, and then a coat of UW and I am happy with the results. Just thought I would ask. Thanks for the reply.
They are modern for sure, with one less than a few months old. I will stick with my #6 for a polish/wax. Not fond of UP and I thought M7 would be a nice polish and easier to remove than UP. I don't experiment much, and never even heard of D301. Just a simple clay, UC where necessary, #6 for a polish, and then a coat of UW and I am happy with the results. Just thought I would ask. Thanks for the reply.
Have you tried M205 yet? It can be purchased locally.
I love love love M205. It is my go to polish and mild scratch remover. I find UP to be only marginally better as a polish. I have only been able to get a good clean streak free wipe if I wipe the panel with a IPA wipedown/Gyeon Prep wipe after the 2-4 passes of UP. M205 dusts more, but is easier to manage when removing (IMO)
Not fond of UP and I thought M7 would be a nice polish and easier to remove than UP.
If you're looking for something easy to remove, DO NOT go anywhere near M07. As I said, I've gone thru a bunch of it, 40 years worth to be exact. I've got over 40 waxes /sealants /polishes on my shelves and NOTHING is as difficult to remove as M07. It's just so damn worth it on a dark classic paint.
If you're looking for something easy to remove, DO NOT go anywhere near M07. As I said, I've gone thru a bunch of it, 40 years worth to be exact. I've got over 40 waxes /sealants /polishes on my shelves and NOTHING is as difficult to remove as M07. It's just so damn worth it on a dark classic paint.
Bill
Thanks. Last thing I want is something difficult to remove, especially if it is really designed for classic paint, as opposed to a modern clearcoat.
Suggest you work up the ladder to 3000-5000 range. MUCH easier to remove those pesky sanding marks.
Bill
SysWiz
I agree with Bill.
600 grit used to be the best we had in the early 1960s. Today, there are wonder alternatives that will likely lead to less work.
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