Question about #80 - Does it contain heavy fillers?

[silence]

Question about #80 - Does it contain heavy fillers?


Does it contain heavy fillers?

Will it cover up swirls and scratches more than it will remove them?

[Blr123]

Hey there,

No it's mild fillers in #80.

Bryan

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Question about #80

Originally posted by silence
Does it contain heavy fillers? Will it cover up swirls and scratches more than it will remove them?

How do you define the word, fillers ?


Do a search using the word fillers and select Search Titles Only in the search preference option.


The word, fillers is a word used by the uniformed on other forums. Don't let yourself get trapped into that mindset. Remember there's lot of self-proclaimed guru's out there that simply copy and paste what they read and in essence act like parrots repeating information they never generated. The problem with this is that some of the information is good, while some of it is bad.

[Aurora40]

Re: Question about #80

Originally posted by silence
Does it contain heavy fillers? Will it cover up swirls and scratches more than it will remove them?

Heheh, I don't know what heavy vs light would be. #80 leaves a finish behind like a glaze would, though, so it will hide swirls and scratches to a degree.

But #80 is an abrasive polish and will also correct defects to a degree. As to whether it will fill more than remove, that all depends on what you are trying to do and how you are using it. If you use it on big deep scratches, it probably won't remove much of anything. If you use it on light swirls and spiderwebs, it will probably remove all of it.

If you want to check the finish as you polish, you simply need to wipe the surface down with something like 50/50 rubbing alcohol.

What is it you are trying to accomplish with it?

As an aside, I like #80. It's easy to use, leaves a nice finish, and isn't a heavy cut.

[Mike Phillips]

Just to piggyback on what Aurora40 posted, correctly used, our cleaner/polishes like the M80 Speed Glaze remove swirls and scratches, they don't merely fill them in. Part of using a Meguiar's cleaner/polish correctly is choosing the correct product for the job, the other part is to work the product long enough to ensure all of the diminishing abrasives have been broken down.

I purposefully instilled swirls into the hood of our black Pilot and then using only M80 Speed Glaze with our W-8006 foam polishing pad on our G100 dual action polisher I machine cleaned the swirls out of the paint.

I then wiped the hood down with All Purpose Plus Cleaner followed by a strong solution of our Glass Cleaner in the Professional Line, followed by washing the hood with a detergent dish washing soap and then rinsed with water.

I think most people would agree that the above cleaning process will have successfully removed anything left on the finish by the M80 Speed Glaze.

I then moved the Pilot into the driveway in such a was as to capture the sun reflecting off the hood.



The swirls were completely removed, not filled in. The finish actually looked great, as though it had been waxed, yet it had just been tortured with two harsh chemicals and a detergent wash. I'm always impressed at the results that can be achieved with M80 Speed Glaze. When applied correctly, it leaves the finish clear, glassy and perfect for applying a Meguiar's wax.

Below is the deck lid off of the 73 Challenger built by Chip Foose on Overhaulin, it was filled with swirls and scratches. We machine cleaned it using nothing but M80 Speed Glaze with our W-8006 foam polishing pad. We applied the M80 Speed Glaze twice to completely remove all swirls and scratches...




One pass with M80 Speed Glaze on the Panic Parrot


One very well worked-in pass of M80 Speed Glaze on this single stage lacquer paint on a 1960 Tuxedo Black Corvette with no wax applied yet.

Before Side


After Side


Finished off with two coats of NXT Tech Wax Liquid Applied by Machine

[Lncanney]

Mike, you ARE crazy!

I purposefully instilled swirls into the hood

I then wiped the hood down with All Purpose Plus Cleaner followed by a strong solution of our Glass Cleaner in the Professional Line, followed by washing the hood with a detergent dish washing soap and then rinsed with water.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Lncanney
Mike, you ARE crazy!

Shhh... don't tell Lynn....


I did it to prove a point because of all the keyboard commandos talking about fillers on all the other forums....

[silence]

Well the reason I asked is i came across somebody who said they used #80 and when they were done they brought the car into the sunlight and wiped it down and found they it had only covered the scratches I don't know any specifics on what they did. so I wanted to ask you about the fillers.

[OctaneGuy]

Let me get this straight. Your friend applied M80, let it dry, brought it out into the sun, then wiped it clean??? Or are you saying he used M80, buffed it multiple times, then brought it out, and wiped it again?

I can't possibly see how M80 would leave any residue behind to fill anything if it's been properly used.

Remember, if you're buffing M80, it'll go clear--if it's still green/beige/creamy, then well...I can see the misunderstanding!

Did he use a PC or a rotary???

Tell us more about how the product was used.

Originally posted by silence
Well the reason I asked is i came across somebody who said they used #80 and when they were done they brought the car into the sunlight and wiped it down and found they it had only covered the scratches I don't know any specifics on what they did. so I wanted to ask you about the fillers.

[silence]

I don't know how wellhe used the product or the exact steps he did. I don't know him. I didn't think #80 had fillers, so I thought I would ask and hopefully this thread will answer this question down the road if anyone is thinking of asking.

[oc detailer]

so #80 should be rubbed in till its clear/gone? or rubbed in till theres barely anything to wipe away?

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by silence
I don't know how wellhe used the product or the exact steps he did. I don't know him. I didn't think #80 had fillers, so I thought I would ask and hopefully this thread will answer this question down the road if anyone is thinking of asking.

Hi silence,

I think it was a good idea that you posted this question as I see all the talk on other forums about fillers. This is also why I posted this on page 1

Originally posted by Mike Phillips
The word, fillers is a word used by the uniformed on other forums. Don't let yourself get trapped into that mindset. Remember there's lot of self-proclaimed guru's out there that simply copy and paste what they read and in essence act like parrots repeating information they never generated. The problem with this is that some of the information is good, while some of it is bad.

And this is why I posted the below thoughts on this thread,

Help me please! - Swirls on my black RSX!

When the person who started the thread wrote this,

Originally posted by ng-rsx
I've been reading on forums on how to get rid of swirls, listening to other people's opinions etc...

Interesting...

This is what discussion forums are evolving into...

Whose opinions are right...

There are plenty of opinions out there, (that's for sure), and plenty of keyboard commandos and self-appointed gurus waxing-on at length on this or that and one thing or another...

Luckily time has a way of sorting everything out...


If you want to remove swirls or scratches by hand out of your car's clear coat finish then read the links supplied above and this thread I've included below and you will have a pretty good handle on what to do...

What it Means to Remove a Scratch



Point being is everyone is entitled to their opinion, but that doesn't make them right.

[OctaneGuy]

Nope not gone---but if you buff only while it's still creamy, atleast with the G100, you aren't really maximizing the capabilities of M80--but you don't want to go so far as to a dry buff where all the M80 has broken down and has turned to powder.

I do this with DACP M83--I'm not 100% sure, and will be glad to be corrected here--that M80 works in a similar fashion.

Lately I've been using M80 with my rotary.

Richard

Originally posted by oc detailer
so #80 should be rubbed in till its clear/gone? or rubbed in till theres barely anything to wipe away?

[Mike Phillips]

Besides product selection and other factors such as paint hardness and the depth of the defects you're trying to remove, two more factors that have a very important direct effect as to whether or not a product performs appropriately are the knowledge level and skill level of the person doing the work.

You can give two people the same products and tools, divide the panel of a car in half, letting each one work on one half of the panel and when they both are finished get two results, one person producing flawless results, the other mediocre results...

The difference was in the persons skills and abilities... just remember that when you're on other forums reading opinions... We all start out as beginners, so it's completely normal to not start right out of the shoot getting professional results especially when a person is using products formulated for Professionals, (M80 Speed Glaze is formulated for use by Professionals in the Collision Repair Industry, not for consumers and enthusiasts), this means there is an expectation of a higher degree of skill and knowledge in order to get good results.

So we're not knocking anyone that didn't get the results they hoped for and instead of looking inward at themselves they looked outward and put the blame on the product, we're just saying to remember to consider the source.


Just to recapp... from the first page,

Just to piggyback on what Aurora40 posted, correctly used, our cleaner/polishes like the M80 Speed Glaze remove swirls and scratches, they don't merely fill them in. Part of using a Meguiar's cleaner/polish correctly is choosing the correct product for the job, the other part is to work the product long enough to ensure all of the diminishing abrasives have been broken down.

I purposefully instilled swirls into the hood of our black Pilot and then using only M80 Speed Glaze with our W-8006 foam polishing pad on our G100 dual action polisher I machine cleaned the swirls out of the paint.

I then wiped the hood down with All Purpose Plus Cleaner followed by a strong solution of our Glass Cleaner in the Professional Line, followed by washing the hood with a detergent dish washing soap and then rinsed with water.

I think most people would agree that the above cleaning process will have successfully removed anything left on the finish by the M80 Speed Glaze.

I then moved the Pilot into the driveway in such a was as to capture the sun reflecting off the hood.



The swirls were completely removed, not filled in. The finish actually looked great, as though it had been waxed, yet it had just been tortured with two harsh chemicals and a detergent wash. I'm always impressed at the results that can be achieved with M80 Speed Glaze. When applied correctly, it leaves the finish clear, glassy and perfect for applying a Meguiar's wax.

[Accumulator]

The whole "fillers and hiding" thing involving #80 sure gets a lot of bandwidth! Guess I'll toss in my observations too.

Note: I like #80, use #80, recommend #80. I have no connection with Meguiar's and I don't care if people do/don't use this product or anything else The following $0.02 is based on first-hand experience on numerous vehicles.

See how it compares to what Mike and Aurora40 posted

The diminishing abrasives do mechanically remove marring. Period. But they are pretty mild and might require a few applications to do the job. To completely break them down it appears that you should work the #80 until it changes from its original green/brown color to a basically clear appearance. I have never worked it until dry for fear of instilling micromarring and because I see no reason to do so.

The fresh-paint-safe polymers and/or whatever else #80 leaves behind will conceal a little light marring. This marring could often have been removed if the #80 was used a few more times, this gets back to the mildness of the diminishing abrasives. I know that this concealing occurs because I have used #80 until a surface appeared marring-free (FWIW, this was on very hard clear and I only used the #80 for 2-3 "passes" with a D/A). When I used a solvent to clean the panels in question, I found that light marring remained despite the work I did with the #80. This was not visible before wiping and was not the result of the wiping so I have no other explanation besides the assumption that the #80 somehow concealed it.

Does this "concealing" matter? Only if you want it to. The panels looked fine with the remaining marring "hidden". The panels would look fine if you kept using #80 until all the marring was physically gone. Seems like a win/win situation to me, and the only time I consider this "concealing" is if I'll be following #80 with something that "cleans" the panels- this might uncover something that I thought was gone. No biggie, just a matter of which products work the way I want when used together. I go straight from #80 to my LSP and everything looks fine.